What I found exciting about the New Golden/Platinum Age of Television was not its muscular male dramas or sexy youth comedies but that it made room for Thu Tran’s mysterious, beautiful, handmade “Food Party.” Developed for IFC by Brooklyn based graduates of the Cleveland Institute of Art, the series, which ran for two seasons in 2009 and 2010, is a low fi, messy mash up of Julia Child and “Pee Wee’s Playhouse,” constructed from cardboard, paint, papier mch and glitter, generally having something to do with cooking and eating and related transformational processes. Dramatically lit and richly colored, it has a dark fairy tale energy: Tran gives birth to a pie from which emerges a (real) kitten, who will later blast off in a spaceship. Meals include “shaved rabbit’s foot caviar necklace, in a bowl,” a four course dinner contained in concentric balloons made from the “notoriously elastic dimetrodon bladder,” and spring rolls made out of an evil stepsister.
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